Gasherbrum I does not say “shining wall” contrary to the common conviction. The name is derived from the Balti words Rgasha, meaning lovely brum, meaning mountain. Six Gasherbrum peaks are in nature. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and Secret Top, was named after the extreme remoteness of William Martin Conway in 1892. It’s their highest height. The Karakoram Range is the 11th largest mountain in the world and the second highest. The top of the Baltoro Glacier is the main route of entry to the mountains from the middle of the Karakoram Range, one of 48,000 metres of peaks in an impressive cluster on the upper reaches.
The second highest peak in the universe is the Karakoram. It is situated roughly one thousand miles west of the Himalayan mountains of Nepal. Tajikistan, China, Pakistan , Afghanistan and India are all bounded by the set. It is a condensed group of high peaks over 6900 metres of mountains. Of the 14 highest mountains in the world, four are within the Karakoram range: K2, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Wide Top.
Gasherbrum is a small range of high peaks in the northeastern part of the Baltoro 36-mile glacier in the Karakoram region. Around their own Glacier, Gasherbrum, the band forms a half-circle. An Expedition of France led by H. In 1936, De Segogne made the first attempt but could not reach 6797 metres above Camp V. But in 1958 the first climb of Gasherbrum I was made by an American expedition under Nich Clinch. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman crossed the summit for the first time.
The mountain has hosted the first eight thousand metre alpine-type ascent in the world. That is, from the bottom of the mountain, the start of the climb is made and all gears can be found on the path, where there are bivouacs. No planning of the path is finished. Not utilising extra oxygen. This unparalleled feat was produced in August 1975 by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler. They began their ascent on 8 August 1975. They had no rope, no extra oxygen, just personal climbing gears with them. On 10 August the peak was summited and the pure alpine form of the Karokaram was added.
Gasherbrum I is one of the 8000 m highest peaks, which is the least common. It only has a minimum of 200 climbs and is at tenth position on the 8000-metre-high elevation list. This is also one of the lowest death peaks, but that possibly is because in Gasherbrum I only experienced mountaineers trying the highest peak.
On the west, the most common path is the “Japanese Couloir,” on the top of the north-west face. The Japanese route leads to this range. The first ascent of Spur Peak in 1958 was made, then along the long southeast ridge to the top.
1934-The Swiss G.O Dyhrenfurth investigates the Gasherbrum I and II, a major foreign expedition. Two climbers cross a height of 6,300 metres.
1936 – A French expedition hits 6,900 m.
1958-The first climb, via Roch ridge, was made by an American team headed by Nicholas Clinch.
1975 – The peaks of the current route (northwest route) in a pure alpine shape (first time on a plateau of 8000 metres) were ascended by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler for three days. One day later, the summit on the American route was reached by a team of three headed by Hanns Schell.
1977 – Two Slovenians (Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Stremfelj) made their fourth successful ascent on a new path again. Drago Bregar died, team member
1980-The Fifth Climb was successful for the Frenchmen Maurice Barrards and Georges Narbaud and the First South Ridge.
1981-A Japanese team takes the sixth successful climb on the Clinch Path, with set ropes.
1982-The German Expedition Summit on the Northern side by Michael Dacher, siegfried Hopfauer and Günter Sturm. In the same year, the first woman at the summit was French Marie-José Valençot. The first descent on skis from the top of the 8000-meter mountain to the base camp is achieved by her husband Sylvain Saudan of Switzerlands.
1983-Wojciech Kurtyka ‘s Latest Journey to Jerzy Kukuczka. Ascent in alpine form without oxygen help.
1983-Swiss and Spanish teams excel.
1984 – Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander travelled between Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I.
1985 – Benoît Chamoux ‘s solo climbing. The Italian Giampiero Di Federico opens on the north-west face on 14 July a new route.
1997 – The summit was reached by Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström.
2003-19 people, including Mohammad Oraz, reached the summit.
2012-On 9 March, the first winter climb took place between Adam Bielecki (Poland) and Janusz Gołąb (Poland). The climb was achieved without sufficient oxygen. On that day, three climbers, Austrian Gerfried Goschl, Swiss Cedric Hahlen and Nisar Hussain Sadpara, Pakistan, skipped, never again. They attempted to climb along a new path and are assumed to be hit by heavy winds.
2013-7 July, Artur Hajzer died during a ride to the summit in the Japanese Coloir.
2013-21 July 2013, after the hurricane, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez, and Álvaro Paredes went up to the summit to leave.Czech Marek ‘Mára’ Holeček and Zdeněk Hák developed a new route called Happiness in the alpine style of six days without additional oxygen in 2017-30th July. Southwest face up (in Zdeněk Hrubý memory)
Route to Gasherbrum I
In one of Pakistan’s farthest sections, Gasherbrum I is far into the wild. You must enter Islamabad sooner or later since this is the city where the permits to hit the top are issued. You can only relax and obey the guide in the country if an organiser takes care of the preparations for you. The following will be of assistance if you want to plan it yourself.
To the Northern Areas from Islamabad. Skardu (normal point of departure for hiking) well suits local coaches Islamabad. From Pirwadai I Rawalpindi (15 km from Islamabad twin city), take a NATCO or Masherbrum Tours bus. The 22-30h voyage costs about $12. You will have a 200-300 Rps taxi from central Islamabad. Some bus stop in Besham overnight, some move directly to Skardu. Don’t be shocked if you have reserved a seat for a direct bus in Besham for some time. This wait is normally for other buses to pick and the police / military to plan a convoy. In Indus Khistan, there is nearly still some minor unrest and the authorities prepare a convoy for night travel to safely play it. It is not troubling, it is normal in this sector
There are three routes to the Skardu summit – via Askole and Gondogoro pass – from Skardu to Gasherbrum I. If you are not acclimatised, the first is to prescribe. It’s a 5600 m Gondogoro Pass, but most hiker and climbers use that path for their return journey.
To Ascole. To Ascole. A 6-8h jeep trip on partially bad roads, and in the summer of 2005, the existing price amounted to 3500-4000 Rps. In Askole it is possible to either camp in the wilderness or use the camping ground, which costs you 100 rps. The infrastructure includes sanitation, running water and a walled and grassy campground.
Jhula is the first campground along the way. Jhula from Askole takes about 4 to 8 hours and the trek is straight ahead. You walk near a river most of the time on decent sidewalks. An early start is advisable because in this region it gets very warm. Two bridges must be crossed in which you have to pay a nominal fee. The toilets and camp platforms of the Jhula have shower cabins, running water and. A limit of 100 rps. per night.
Normally, the second day is no challenge in hitting Paiju. The hiking is difficult when you walk around the rivers in sand and often you walk up and down. The services are the same as Jhula and there are 100 Rps./night costs to camp here. In the high season the area is busy and if you don’t like it, just go to the first stream for an extra 20 minutes or where the glacier starts, which is very convenient for camping. Here you can find fresh water.
The campsite next is Urdukas which provides excellent views of the area Trango. On the hillside with good camp sites, the campsite is placed. Installations and price are similar to the Paiju and Jhula. You will camp on the real glacier whether you want to travel deeper or half of the way into Urduka. There can also easily be found campsites, but there are nice or/ or secure camps in some places for half an hour.
Depending about how the participants in the party feel, the duration of a daily day trip varies a lot. Some camps are along the way, but they are all very important, made up of rock shelters. Most groups stop in Goro II, Goro I and some go to Concordia for an hour before this camp.
Concordia, the spectacular glacial ampitheater, with four of the 14 8000 + peaks in the world within a 20-km range. One of the most beautiful areas in the world may be, shockingly, a place packed with garbage and human waste. To the left, Wide Peak and K2 can be seen. Gasherbrum IV falls before you and the spectacular Mitre is on your right. No fines and no Concordia services.
Track the upper glacier of Baltoro higher east. When you leave Concordia, inquire for guidance, as it isn’t clear on the way via a smaller serac plain. Here are loaders across a few wide fractures. Track the glacier to the south of Baltoro Kangri and proceed to Sia Kangri north. For the first time from here you see Gasherbrum I. There are some smaller camps along the way , especially Camp Moorr, if you’re tired. There are no installations, but decent shelter. An army post is also on the way. Don’t flash the camera, it’s going to be taken! You reach the base camp Gasherbrum I about 4-7 hours outside Concordia and it is very dispersed on the range of the glacier.
A few expeditions attempted to peak from the Chinese side. Gasherbrum I from the Chinese side. The oasis of Kashgar on the banks of the Taklamakan Desert is the base from which to begin. You will drive to Yecheng 270 km of nice asphalt road. A crossroads are situated in A-Ba, a small town, 6 km from the capital. The path to Lhasa starts here on the well-known highway of Xinjiang. The desert becomes a smaller hill that grows higher and bigger and is surrounded by actual peaks after a half day’s ride. The first Aqmeqit pass is at 3300 m and thanks to the insane quantity of the switches it is a magnificent experience. The Kudie pass starts from the start of the long ascent to Passo Chiragsaldi. The pass is renowned for its rugged and hard weather and you cross the mountains of Kunlun. You can see the Karakorams from here at 5000 m.
Often, the Gondogoro Pass is the highest pass in the world and the height on many maps is over 5900 m. It’s not so high, but still an amazing pass at 5600 metres. Because of the excellent views from the pass, several teams prefer to walk that direction. The entire Gasherbrum (see image above), Chogolisa (7665 m), Baltoro Kangri (7800 m) and several other lovely high mountain peaks are close by. Massherbrum (7821 m) and your NW is very close to it. The north is visible from K2 to Broad Top. The Laila Peak can be seen in the south.
It’s a long journey to the Ali Camp from Concordia. You walk first past Mitre Peak and on your right side you up the next valley / glacier. There’s an even longer day walk from the Gasherbrum I base camp. Try to walk down the valley early on along the banks. Beware of sliding rocks as you approach the valley and try to hit the frozen glacier as fast as possible. Best to go up and down in the computer. Look out for crevasses as you come to Ali Camp. Ali Camp’s “defence squad” screams at you, where not to walk and where not.
There is a 100 rp / night rate for Ali Camp. Ridical rates must be charged for “nature protection,” “directing facilities” (I’ve never seen guides when I walked through the pass) and “security” (some bad plastic ropes tied incredibly badly are seen near the summit of the Pass Gondogoro). It’s 2500 Rps for 1-3 individuals. It’s 4500 Rps for 4-8 individuals. The pass is owned by private individuals. That’s possibly the explanation for this scam. The “guides” who remain at Ali Camp should be bugged about the trash and not trusted with the clothes.
I was told the Ali Camp Pass would take 5 to 7 hours. I wanted 2.45. This is probably normal for an acclimatised mountaineer. On top of the pass it may be very windy since it is very high on the SW side. Neither do the ropes trust this hand. It’s very steep (40-45 degrees) on this foot. Keep up to the right
side, if there are no tracks. Glaciers are farther down towards the centre of the glacier. The way is very good before Xhuspang / Shispang’s little camping spot, where you can get really easy food too.
After hiking, the glacier becomes harder to move and after entering the main valley after you cross the first rugged section of the camp sit on the left. This stops you from the major crevices and you leave the valley on the left hand side. Take a left and reach some beautiful meadows and yaks on the bottom of the first valley. Cool views of the sharp ranges. Any tough, slide sections must be transferred. The path back to Shaishcho becomes clearer when you travel down to the Gondogoro glacier.
You should feed and pitch the tent with a lovely scent of wild roses in that little village. A tent of 100 Rps./night. A 3-hour-walk from here to Hushe is very easy. For the first few hours, the Hushe-Skardu road is in an terrible shape. The route was cut badly by a major river in the summer of 2005, and any passenger had to walk on a tiny log over a wild waterfall. On the other side, other jeeps waited. Most apricot vergers There followed many apricot gardens. The road to Askole from near Khaplu is asphalt. Count from Hushe to Askole for 5-8 hours.