The most isolated and strong concentration GASHERBRUM II of high mountains on the earth is situated at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, at the end of one of the most popular walks of the world.
Gasherbrum II belongs to the broader group of 5 peaks of Gasherbrum 2 of which are 8000 m high and the 13th highest mountain of the planet. She is considered one of the 14 simplest and most available, and, if adequately resourced and trained, climbers enjoy fair peak rates in clement conditions on their usual path.
Naturally, she is an 8000er, repelling several dozen climbers year after year. In 2004, about 38 climbers from different countries got to its summit following the opening of a little weather window at the end of the season.
The SW ridge is the path to pick from. A spur which is largely transparent and generally free from objective hazards. Past reveals that, due to these reasons, some climbers died on this path.
If you intend to ascend GASHERBRUM II , you would need to be able to avoid the “expedition breakdowns,” exhaustion, apathy, lethargy, and cold, lonely nights on the glacier.
8 K heights are for escalators what tennis players are in the Grand Slam series (excluding the lack of 26,000 feet of spectacles). So if your “Wimbledon” is not ready yet, your GASHERBRUM II isn’t ready.
You should probably have a variety of severe climbing seasons to or beyond six and a half miles before you can contemplate a climb of Gasherbrum II or any other 8,000 m.
In general, most expeditions come here for 55 days from their arrival in Islamabad, Pakistan ‘s capital, to climb this mountain.
There are also individuals who don’t …
It is one of the most distant and challenging to enter, according to Himalayan criteria. In fact, the only 8000 m high peaks on the earth, not visible from an indoor position is the second and the other 8k giants around Concordia. Skardu is the last city and the jumping point of any scale. If the weather is fine, you can fly to Skardu from Islamabad in a Boeing 737 (although Skardu is not ILS-piloted-when you see the approach you’re going to know why). Alternatively, a 36-hour drive over the beautiful Karakaroram Highway is an ideal way to see Pakistan as backwater. Try to take a bus to Skardu and if possible fly to Islamabad.
Skardu is a hop for all the main expeditions and treks through the area of Baltoro. Here you can make last minute preparations, buy things, enjoy a comfortable climate, ancient shops and soothing weather.
The 10-hour jeep drive from Skardu takes you on one of Baltistan’s most picturesque and scenic valley roads. The drive is anything from “pretty” to “suicidal,” each is distinctive. On this road already, we have lost a jeep. Pray to Allah that you will have no hard rain or high and dry wind-both bring loads of rock down with surprising regularity on the way.
At Askole, the last mentioned settlement, it marks the 85 km of mark towards Conkordia along the Baltoro Glacier and goes past some of the most remarkable and physically spectacular mountain scenery on earth.
On the way, you past the Great Trango Peaks, Masherbum, Paiju, the Mustagh Tower and the Mitre Top, riding the moraines of the mighty Baltoro Glacier, following a round but well-used route all the time.
The government of Pakistan has conducted big road cleanups in the last few years-today, in several areas , new chemical toliets, sunshine in camps and kerosene depots can be seen. All this helps to maintain the ever-increasing pressure on the ecosystem for visitors, escalators and hikers who come here every season.
However, neither the additional luxuries diminish the demands of this approach-here nature reigns supreme and the terrain is clearly too dominant and indomitable for domestication.
This is still one of the wildest and most extraordinary mountain walks on the planet and is appropriately on the list of “The World’s Top 5 Hikes” to take its long spot
The GASHERBRUM II climb and the G1 are both contenders for the next Upper Gasherbrum where the bulk of trekkers will turn to Concordia. Usually, this is a long day in nearly ideal circumstances.
Anywhere from 7 and 10 days after leaving Skardu, you will find yourself in the glorious circuit of the South Gasherbrum Glacier which is either a slush stinking hot hell hole or a cold, cooled wasteland of ice according to the whims of the all-powerful Karakoram weather system.
From our 2004 trip to GASHERBRUM II the timetable is below:
Time & Path
1st day Islamabad arrives.
Day 2 Tourism Department Briefing. Conference of LO
The 3rd day is Skardu (1 h) or Chilas move.
Day 4 Skardu free day or travel Skardu Chilas (8-10 hrs) free of charge.
Day 5 By Askole’s jeeps at 3000 metres (8-9 hrs).
Jhola river (8-9 hrs) Day 6.
Day 7 Trek to Paiyu, Baltoro and Trango Party nice view (7 hrs).
Day 8 Free day at Paiyu (3600 m). FREE day.
Day 9 To Khuburtze: 4000 m (5-8 hours).
Day 10 Urduca: walking for 4-5 hours mostly around the side moraine crest
Day 11 Goro II: 3-4 hour glacier on a 4500 metre campground.
Day 12 Concordia: 5-6 hours of walking with incredible views.
Trip to camp Gasherbrum Day 13 6 hours.
Day 14-40 Gasherbrum climbing. Day 41-47 Back to Askole, travel to Skardi. Day 41-47.
Day 48 Travel to Islamabad or Chilas drive.
Day 49 Islamabad free day or Islamabad travel. Day 49
Day 50 Tea, travel around. Day 50
Dealing wth the Authorities
A Authorization is required, and a liaison officer authorised by the military or tourism ministry. For the third year in a row, the government of Pakistan lowered peak prices allegedly to try to draw hikers and climbers returning to the country after the 9/11 terror alarms.
The project was undoubtedly popular in 2004 – the region was attended by about 6000 trekkers and up to 75 expeditions on 7 and 8000-meter peaks in Pakistan were on different routes. It’s been wrapped up quite simply. The ensuing logjams on the glacier became a logistic nightmare, with expedition equipment scattered all over the place. In their modern perception and comprehension of a free business environment, the local porters have increased their costs and several independent teams have been frustrated by the evaporation of their budgets.
In the absence of a 50% cut in peak fees, the Ministry of Tourism would bill $4500 for 7 escalators, which is US$ 750 per climber. You will need to pay your LO 25 dollars a day in cities, 15 dollars a day on the property, and provide it with all the state-of-the-art hiking , camping, food , accommodation and insurance facilities.
In order to do so or join an organised party in Islamabad, it is in your best interests to include a corporation. You may want an environmental bond of $1000 and you need a $6,000 bond if you wish to get an emergency rescue helicopter back up (in this situation you really need to have a mobile network-apply a $200 phone licence).
Our last LO went to the base camp with 5 strong books and sunk two weeks before easily selling his equipment back to Skardu.
Ascent and route details – SW Ridge
Flooring: 5300 m.
Field 1: 5900 m
Campsite 2: 500 m
Camp 3: 7100 m Sunrise.
Currently Camp 4 at c7300 m
Path of the South West Ridge
Mountaineers definitely want to see their first large peak with the climbing legs on Gasherbrum II. Its slopes aren’t as steep as their neighbour Gasherbrum, or as technological or mixed as its neighbour. The camp sites are located in predominantly flat areas. There are few objective risks.
Base for Icefalls
For the first time , the two teams are passing a minor icefall outside the Basecamp to reach GASHERBRUM II . Many hill expeditions maintain the course as is popular in these climbs. Wherever possible, the line is clearly outlined with walls. The icefall is not extremely risky or damaging, although it is important to navigate some steep points. At the base of the SW range is located at a depth of just less than 5900 metres. The regular time is about 7 hours, but it can be shortened by half on the last trip as you move to new heights.
Ridge in the South West
Camp 3 Foundation Camp
One of the greatest benefits of hiking the SW ridge is that even in extreme weather it’s impossible to get lost or off the route. The ridge is established and holds a fairly uniform angle. Often the road moves to the right and to the great snow to remove minor ice ribs and cracks. The first sections of the ridge up to C2 are the steepest and areas above C2 are set with a seam. Camp 2 itself is situated at 6400 m on a wide sheltered platform.
Climb time is an extremely achievable 4-6 hours on average for all 3 campsites.
Camp 3 is located just above and to the right in a reasonably well-protected location, just below 7000 m from top of the ridge. The spectacular rock pyramid that leads to the top rises above the tents. Climbers usually expect to ascend from 2 to 4 to C2 and from 1 to 2 to C3.
Thanks to being a common range, many climbers frequent it and, in all places, the path has been well ‘spiked’ with walls and smooth rope tracks sometimes for hundreds of metres.