Broad Peak is located on the Karakoram Range in north east Pakistan and is the twelfth highest mountain in the world, at 8,047 m. The first Westerner who saw the summit possibly was Lieutenant T.G. Montgomerie, on the western portion of the Baltoro Glacier. In 1856 he saw some remarkable peaks which he called temporarily. He looked at the montains in this area. K to Karakoram + a pinnacle total. K1, K2, K3 and so forth. Montgomerie heard a local name for K1had; Masherbrum. Later. K2, still falls under that name, even though some of the local people have suggested renaming it Qogori. The top of the peak is almost 2 km in circumference, and hence British explorer W.M. The first mountain to calculate by Montgomerie has no local name. K3. Wide Top, Conway felt, was a fitting name.The name gained popular recognition and a group of zealots on a pilgrimage campaign to eradicate all western names wanted a local name on the summit. Conway noted: “There’s fine width of mountain magnificence, a giant Breithorn filing the path between K2 and the secret Gasherbrum.” They did what they felt was second-class, and then they literally converted Wide Peak into Balti, the local Tibetan dialect. They did not find trustworthy candidates. The word-Kangri / Ri P’alchan. Over the years it has been quite bastardised and is spellbroken and pronounced today by Falchen Kangri, which has no “f-sounds” at all in Balti.
One or two 8000m peaks?
For a long time there has been an often raging discussion over the Large Peak with one of its two “true summits.” Most people believe that this central mountain is not a separate one, but that it is one point of the snow in between this mountain and the other summit. It is not a separate summit. The Wide Peak Central, if the snow melts because of global warming, can qualify as the 15’8000 m summit. The possibility that the snow on the true summit is sinking and that the fore summit will surpass it in height is a further problem linked to climate change. This is welcomed by the climbers as the most tricky aspect of the whole climb is missed.
First ascents of the main summits
Wide Mountain consists of three distinct peak areas: 8,047 m. of the main peak, 8,016 m. of central peak and 7,550 m. of the north summit.
An Austrian expedition with just four climbing participants made the first ascent of the mountain top in 1957. The failed German expediture of 1954 used three of the fixed lines and without the use of oxygen all four summitted. The climb was a remarkable achievement for alpine climbing because the time of small and inexperienced teams that were seeking the best peaks on Earth was not long before The HAPs or guides offered assistance to Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck.
Five members of the Polish expedition climbed to the Wide Peak Centre, including Marek Kesicki, Bohdan Nowaczyk, Kazimierz Glazek, Janusz Kulis and Andrzej Sikorski. The summits were held on 28 July 1975. The descent was destroyed by Kesicki, Nowaczyk and Sikorski.
Janusz Ferenski was the leader of this expedition.
With info on this, jck helped out.
In 1983 an Italian expedition, headed by Renato Casarotto, ultimately acquired the North Peak.
Climbing Broad Peak
Wide Peak was climbed 255 times and had 18 fatalities from the first ascent in 1957 to August 2003. Therefore, the death rate is about 7%, which can be contrasted with Everest, for instance, which is 9%. It is one of the better peaks of 8,000 m, but it does not underestimate the danger of avalanches.
Many teams now use the mild Wide Peak climb to acclimate the fast ascent of K2 into the Alps. Though the main path to the summit via the western ridge is very strenuous, the terrain is always the deciding factor, like other Karakoram mountains.
There were just 5 people twice and none more.
To the true summit or not?
Wide Peak is like Xixabangma and Cho Oyu a pitch that doesn’t hit the real top with the vast majority of “summiteers.” Most stops at the pre-summit and says that Wide Peak has risen. Hans Kammerlander was sick of this in 1994 and left a rope, a red and purple clothes, tied to a ski pole in the summit.
In 1984, the incredible Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki made an outstanding climb in July. At 4850 metres in the middle of the night, he left the base camp, at 0400 hours, at 0800 hours, on col at 1400 hours, at 1600 the key top. His 3,150 metre climb in under 14 hours was an unbelievable feat. In little more than 22 hours he finished the journey, all alone. The solo rise to a height to 8,000 m in a day only happened in 1986.
1994 Swede Göran Kropp was also quicker than Wielicki in 181⁄2h when he solished the tip.
1982 Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka have thoroughly read their K2 climbing licence. It said: Lower peak acclimation permitted in the region.
Since Wide Peak is less than K2, they concluded that it can be required and attended the summit as an acclimatisation step. They met Messner on the way up, who asked if he had been summiting. We had been to the area, Kurtyka told messner. Messner was laughing and saying: Yeah, yeah. Yeah. Yeah, yes. Understanding. Understanding. He also promised not to comment about the meeting to anyone. Messner remained silent until his book “Three Times Eight” was published.
2013 The first winter ascent of the Large Summit was achieved by Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomas Kowalski and Artur Małek (8051 m). Unfortunately, the fact that Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski were lost during the descent was soon to cloud their progress.
See the book page for the books by Kukuczka and Messner on this case and an informative reading on the 148000’s climb.
Scott adds to this:
In winter, too, Broad Peak was sought. In the winter Maciej Berbeka from Zakopane, Poland ascended the rocky mountain (8016 metres below the main summit). For the largest summit in bad weather, Maciej pissed this summit. In 2003, the Spanish team decided to climb the winter, but the intense wind and cold turned them around. Many camps have been burned, but thankfully no one has been killed.
Go to wikipedia for more info https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broad_Peak